An exclusive interview with the nose behind the new Miss Dior perfume

Seventy years ago, Christian Dior launched his first ever perfume. The original incarnation of Miss Dior launched in 1947, decades before the subsequent successes of the now iconic J’Adore and Poison. The chypre fragrance, with top notes of gardenia, clary sage and bergamot has remained an integral part of the Parfums Christian Dior brand.

This year, the house of Dior worked with perfumer-creator Francois Demachy, who has been the nose at Dior since 2006, to re-imagine that original fragrance, which was inspired by the designer’s own sister, Catherine.

Here, Bazaar talks to Demachy about the latest incarnation…

In what ways does this update of Miss Dior still represent Catherine?

"Miss Dior embodies ideal femininity, body and soul. Catherine Dior was Christian Dior's beloved sister who possessed a type of Parisian elegance that was simultaneously spontaneous, sassy, and refined. What she also had was great intelligence and immense courage. She was a great resistance fighter and was deported, which marked Christian Dior forever. This image of a strong and beautiful woman represents the foundations of Miss Dior."

How do the new notes illustrate her strong character?

"The opening is even livelier, bursting with assertive citrus notes. The floral heart is a sensual and potent duo of Grasse and Damascena Roses."

The original Miss Dior

Who is the new Miss Dior Eau de Parfum?

"She hasn't changed, as today's women claim their rightful place in the world. Miss Dior embodies Dior femininity, which as you can see, makes a lot of claims and even prints them on t-shirts!"

Was it difficult reinventing a scent held so close to Christian Dior’s heart?

"You have to keep going back to the basics: above all, Miss Dior is the perfume of love. It needs that spirit, that elegant radiance, and the instant sensuality that is its signature. Miss Dior is Christian Dior's first-born, his beloved daughter. Keeping that going stirs up a lot of questions and emotions. We have to stay true to his spirit but also reflect our own era."

How did you begin the process of rethinking Miss Dior?

"I don't need to go back to the archives as Miss Dior's story is with us all here at the House of Dior. My path was a sensorial one, and I had to find a certain lightness without losing the perfume's signature, by removing all the earthy notes and letting the flowers shine."

The Château de la Colle Noire

You went back to the gardens at La Colle Noir to reimagine Miss Dior - why was this?

"You have to remember that Miss Dior is as much a Parisian as she is a Provençal girl. Christian Dior wrote as much with great lyricism, saying that Miss Dior was born on a summer's night in Provence – a warm night, when the nature that he so loved inspired his very first fragrance. The House of Dior has multiple, historical roots in Grasse. The Grasse region was a land of refuge for the Dior family in the 1930s and when Christian Dior became internationally successful, he still considered the area a paradise.

"La Colle Noire was a haven of peace for him. He was able to plant hectares of flowers, vines and trees, but above all, he planted entire fields of lavender, Jasmine, and of course, May Rose. Today, the Château de La Colle Noire has reopened its doors and we have replanted the May Rose, whose Absolute shines at the heart of Miss Dior EDP. We have come full circle, and I am convinced that Christian Dior would be delighted to see that his domain is once again a dazzling place of beauty, exchanges, and sharing, for that was his greatest wish."

Miss Dior Eau de Parfum, £71.50 for 50ml, is out now

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