How to wear a berry lipstick

The recent flurry of fashion week shows have been a welcome change from the past few seasons that existed within the limitations of the pandemic, where beauty trends largely seemed to reflect the muted approach of lockdown life. One spring/summer 2022 look that's caught the eye of the Bazaar beauty team is the berry-toned lip. Given its autumnal appeal we're ready to take it from runway to real life now.

Variations of the berry lip unveiled themselves across the board. At the Coach show, lips were stained with a blackberry toned hue and while the rest of the make-up remained modest and unassuming. Jonathan Simkhai opted for a jammy-hued lip with a blotted effect, keeping much of the colour focused on the centre of the lips and not extending to the edges for a nonchalant approach.

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MAC Matte Lipstick - Antique Velvet

MAC Matte Lipstick - Antique Velvet

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In contrast, make-up artists at Supriya Lele precisely defined lips with a hybrid berry-brown shade in a hark back to the 90s that played out across other fashion week shows. "[Lele] was one of my favourite shows and I thought they did the berry lip beautifully," says MAC national trainer Lewis Clarke. "Hiromi Ueda made beautiful skin with MAC Antiqued Velvet lipstick on the lips, topped with a layer of Clear Lip Glass. It was dark, but with everything else paired back but still perfected, just looked absolutely beautiful and so chic"

Daring to go darker with your lipstick shade has remained a staple of autumn and winter beauty for what seems like aeons. Berry toned lipsticks are called upon at the whim of the seasons, confined to the cooler months, before being lost to the dusty depths of the drawer until next year. No more. As the SS22 shows have shown, the berry lip has reinvented itself as transitional shade, transcending seasons, meaning that when you find your shade, you can really get the most wear out of it all year round.

"Berries are very cool toned which is opposite to what we’ve been used to in the summer months. It’s about finding a depth you feel comfortable with as they’re going to all have the same tone in the berry family," says Clarke.

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Whatever the weather, with so many options on the market the question is where to start? To encourage you in your pursuit of the perfect berry lipstick, we asked make-up artist Ruby Hammer MBE to share her expert advice on navigating the full spectrum of shades.

How do I find the right shade for me?

"Everyone has a berry tone that is suitable for them. As happens in fashion shows, we design a look and make it work for the model, adapting but maintaining the look of the show," explains Hammer. With a range of jammy hues and intensities to choose from, she outlines some starting points depending on your skin tone. "The fairer you are, the paler you can go with strawberry and raspberry shades. If you have a darker skin tone, you can easily go all the way to blackberry shades."

Hammer's best advice? "Whatever the look is, if you have the confidence you will carry it off."

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How can I prepare my lips to make the lipstick last all day?

While a good lipstick will do a lot of the leg work in terms of longevity, the key to avoiding fading and smudging throughout the day is good preparation. "Make sure that your lips aren't dry or flaky by using a lip scrub and a bit of balm," advises Hammer.

"For a precise application like at the Supriya Lele SS22 show, I love a square brush to apply lipstick. For a softer finish you can buff out with a tapered brush to get that ombre, lived-in effect."

Ruby Hammer Magentic Brush Set

Ruby Hammer Magentic Brush Set

How can I wear the trend with a softer approach?

While a berry lipstick can often be a bold statement and not eagerly entered into by those who prefer a pared-back look, Jonathan Simkhai showed how the trend can be approached with a softer attitude. Think of a just-kissed Parisian finish, blotted with slightly smudged application.

"Drop most of the colour on the centre of your lower lip and then blend out using a tapered brush for a more muted finish on the edges," says Hammer. "If it's still too strong blot, with a tissue several times."

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How do I wear the rest of my make-up with a berry lip?

If you're looking to take inspiration straight from the shows, the berry-toned lip was unanimously worn with a pared-back canvas. "Apply a very light base, concealing only where required," advises Hammer. "Add light definition to the brows brushing up using a spoolie and adding powder if sparse. A soft wash of eyeshadow and a single clean coat of mascara will bring the look together."

If you prefer a matte finish on the lips, opting for dewy skin can help keep the look fresh and prevent the overall make-up from appearing too severe. Picking up the shade of the lipstick and applying it to the cheeks as a blush is another way of elevating the look. "Use a creamy consistency to sit high on the cheek bones and across the nose with a very light touch, allowing the berry to really stand out," says Hammer.

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