Laser facials explained | How laser skin treatments really work
For those who take their skin treatments seriously, a laser facial is a tempting proposition. With options for treating myriad issues – from sun damage to acne, rough texture and rosacea – laser treatments are booming for good reason.
While laser facials fall under the non-surgical umbrella, they are complex – and no one treatment is suitable for everyone. They also often require commitment, with a course of regular appointments offering better results than a single clinic visit.
“There’s a healthy middle ground with lasers as effective treatments for long-term skin health,” explains facialist Debbie Thomas. She may be one of the beauty industry’s laser authorities, but she takes a slow and steady approach. “By building up strong, robust skin, visible signs of ageing slow down,” she says.
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How do laser facials work?
There are about 10 lasers that are used for skin treatments, and while they all work in a similar way, they have different abilities. “Lasers are extremely popular devices used in many cosmetic skin practices, providing both medical and aesthetic benefits,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto. “They work by firing a very narrow beam of light, where all of the light waves generated have a similar wavelength. Target molecules in the skin, known as chromophores, will absorb this light and convert it into heat to generate a desired effect.” This effect may be to reduce blood vessels (and the accompanying redness), fade pigmentation, remove unwanted hair (see more on laser hair removal, here), or to resurface the skin to reduce the appearance of acne scars or fine lines.
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The laser treatment sub-types
When looking into laser facials, you’ll likely see various treatments described as either ‘ablative’ or ‘non-ablative’. The basic difference here is that an ablative laser will remove the upper layer of the skin. Non-ablative lasers leave the epidermis intact, bypassing it to directly tackle the dermis beneath. While ablative lasers are usually considered more effective, they traditionally require more recovery, or ‘downtime’, after a treatment.
So far, so simple – but things do get a little more complex. “To sub-divide lasers further, both ablative and non-ablative lasers can be ‘fractional’, says Dr. Mahto. “Fractional lasers have been around since the early 2000s; they target the skin by delivering laser energy where the laser beam has been divided into many small, deep columns. These areas are known as microthermal treatment zones (MTZs). Fractional lasers have a faster recovery time than 'non-fractional' lasers, as the entire bulk of tissue has not been treated.”
The skin issues that laser facials treat
“Choosing the right laser for the right patient requires experience in dermatology to make the right diagnosis, as well as clinical skill in creating a bespoke plan and performing the treatment,” feels Dr. Mahto.
Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme – medical consultant skin expert and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic – agrees, adding that "customisation is essential to achieve optimal results and avoid complications".
Below is a generalised guide to the key types of laser, and the skin issues they primarily treat – although bear in mind that many types of laser can work across multiple skin types and issues.
Laser facials for redness and rosacea
“Vascular lasers such as a pulse-dye or Nd:Yag can be used to target redness and thread veins of the face,” says Dr. Mahto. They emit a beam of pure yellow light, which is absorbed by the skin and converted into heat that reduces broken veins and those associated with rosacea.
Laser facials for hyperpigmentation and dark spots
Lasers such as the fast and powerful Q-switched Nd:Yag and the Alexandrite can be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation such as sun spots. However, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) can occur in response to inflammation in the skin after laser treatments, particularly in darker skin types, so it's imperative to only visit experienced practitioners who can choose the best technology and approach for you.
In addition, when using these powerful lasers, “it is important that the practitioner is certain that the spot being zapped is truly pigmentation and not an early skin cancer such as a lentigo maligna”, says Dr. Mahto. “I have certainly first-hand seen patients being treated elsewhere for a pigmented lesion which has turned out to be a skin cancer due to the inexperience of the person offering the treatment.”
Laser facials for texture and tone
This is where ablative lasers come in. Carbon dioxide (commonly called the ‘carbon peel’) and Erbium are generally considered the lasers of choice for resurfacing the skin to improve overall skin texture and tone, as well as for scarring – be it from acne, trauma or surgery. “They work by boosting the production of new collagen in the skin over time to provide the skin with support and structure,” explains Dr. Mahto.
Do laser facials hurt?
"There might be some mild discomfort during the procedure, such as a warm sensation or slight stinging," says Dr. Ejikeme. Expect anything from a pricking feeling to a sensation like the flick of an elastic band or a small electric shock. "However, the intensity of this sensation can vary depending on the type of laser used and individual pain tolerance," she adds. And know that laser treatments are generally fast, so you aren’t ever uncomfortable for very long.
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Laser facials: the downtime
The reason that many experts prefer to perform gentler laser treatments over multiple sessions is because everyone repairs and regenerates differently. “The problem with aggressive treatments is that if you’re someone who doesn’t heal that well you could end up with long-term damage,” Thomas explains.
The facialist says that around 85 per cent of her clients leave the clinic without any redness. However, whether your skin looks ‘normal’ or not it will be stimulated, so you must practice sensible laser aftercare.
“I tell my clients to imagine they’ve got a severe sunburn for three days. Think: ‘Would I sit in a sauna? Would I take a really hot shower? Would I scrub my skin?’ You know intuitively what you wouldn’t. What you would do, however, is soothe and hydrate the skin, and that’s exactly what you should do post-laser.”
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Similarly, Dr. Mahto highlights the importance of rigorous sun protection following a laser skin treatment, as the skin will be hyper-sensitive to UV light. “I personally prefer to do more invasive treatments in the autumn or winter months on my patients,” she says.
Dr. Mahto also recommends scaling back your skincare post-laser – especially if you have maximalist predilections. “Avoiding acid exfoliants and retinoids can be of benefit depending on the type of treatment you have had: your practitioner will be able to give you more specific advice prior to therapy commencing. Non-smokers often fare better than those who smoke, as smoking can impair wound healing.”
The best laser facials to try now
Below, see some of London's best laser facial treatments, recommended by the Bazaar beauty team.
DNA Laser Complete Grade 2 at D.Thomas Clinic: Debbie Thomas' hero treatment, this non-invasive skin rejuvenation is suitable for all skin tones to treat hyperpigmentation, acne and/or rosacea, and overall age management. It's best to book a consultation first, though, as "we approach everyone’s skin individually, creating bespoke treatment programmes," Thomas explains.
Carbon Laser Peel Facial at Adonia Medical Clinic: "We proudly offer the Carbon Laser Peel Facial – a fantastic skin resurfacing treatment that improves skin texture, tackles acne, and minimises enlarged pores," says Dr. Ejikeme. "By applying a liquid carbon solution to the face, a dark carbon mask is formed, deeply penetrating the skin and extracting impurities, sebum, and excess oils. This minimally invasive procedure delivers visible results in just 30 minutes, leaving you with a rejuvenated and refreshed complexion."
Laser Genesis at Sadaf Jaffari Clinic: Celebrity aesthetician Sadaf Jaffari favours the Laser Genesis technology. "This operates by gently warming the dermal layer just beneath the skin's surface to foster the production of collagen, effectively enhancing skin plumpness and diminishing the visibility of line lines and wrinkles as well as addressing pigmentation, rosacea and acne with minimal downtime." This facial in particular is suitable for every skin type, she confirms, "from lighter skin to those with melanin-rich skin".
VicoGlow at VicoSkin: "At VicoSkin all of the treatments are tailored for the individual skin concerns of our clients," says A-list-favourite Jasmia Vico, skin health expert and founder of VicoSkin. "We always start with a consultation and a patch test to create a bespoke protocol considering which lasers may be suitable for skin condition, skin type (I -VI Fitzpatrick scale) and incorporating multiple treatments to achieve desirable results. With our signature VicoGlow protocol we work with multiple lasers in one bespoke treatment to support exactly what the skin needs."
The Super Facial at Keren Bartov Advanced Clinic: Similarly bespoke, at Keren Bartov's London clinic over 50 medical technologies are offered, including non-ablative and ablative lasers which may be used in The Super Facial if suitable for you. Each unique treatment is 90 minutes long and begins with a consultation and professional skin analysis to dictate the protocol of the treatment.
Kichi Baby Face at Kichi: Targeting sun damage, acne scarring, pigmentation, and more, Natasha Clancy's signature Kichi Baby Face laser facial is powered by a Lutronic non-ablative thulium laser, which is the only laser to create microchannels deep into the dermis, allowing up to 90 per cent absorbency of targeted serums applied thereafter. Expect no downtime, only temporary dryness while the skin is resurfacing before baby-soft skin returns.
Complexion Balance at The Clinic by Dr Maryam Zamani: One of the oculoplastic surgeon and facial aesthetics doctor Maryam Zamani's results-driven treatments, the Complexion Balance combines the gentle, fractional, non-ablative MOXI laser with injections of tranexamic acid. (One of the most inclusive laser treatments available, MOXI can be used on all skin tones to promote new cell growth and reduce unwanted pigmentation with less downtime than more aggressive laser treatments, while tranexamic acid works to interrupt pathways in the skin that may lead to uneven skin tone).
See many more expert facials utilising lasers in our guide to the best advanced facial treatments in London.
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