Pregnancy skincare guide | Best pregnancy-safe beauty products
If you were ever in doubt of the power that hormones can have on your skin, you won't be when you're pregnant. Some women may well get the radiant glow that's synonymous with carrying a baby, and find that any skin concerns improve thanks to hormonal changes "and a dampened immune system", consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips tells us. "However, some women can develop new skin concerns during pregnancy or experience aggravation of pre-existing conditions," he adds – from adult acne to heightened sensitivity and a 'pregnancy mask' of hyperpigmentation.
"The common concerns I see in pregnant women are acne, melasma, rosacea and flare-ups of pre-existing eczema or psoriasis," confirms Dr Phillips. "In addition, pregnant women often come for mole assessments. This is because moles can become darker and larger during pregnancy, which can be disconcerting. There are also a group of uncommon itchy and blistering rashes that occur exclusively in pregnancy that I see once or twice a year."
To help you navigate the minefield that pregnancy presents you with, here's an overview of what might happen to your skin while you're expecting and breastfeeding – and how best to treat it with products and treatments.
The problem: Hyperpigmentation and melasma
Coupled with increased sensitivity to sunlight, you can experience a surge in pigment-stimulating hormones while pregnant and these can contribute to melasma, which "manifests as light brown pigmentation in a mask-like distribution affecting the cheeks, temples, forehead and upper lip" explains Dr Phillips. It is usually genetic and often fades post-pregnancy, but, as skincare expert Debbie Thomas notes, it's worth remembering that "many pregnancy-related hormones still stay elevated during breastfeeding, and can take six-to-nine month to settle after you stop feeding". However, she adds that melasma triggered by pregnancy "can also become a longer term condition".
Ultra Violette Lean Screen Mineral Mattifying Fragrance Free Skinscreen SPF 50+
Ultra Violette Lean Screen Mineral Mattifying Fragrance Free Skinscreen SPF 50+
The products to use: It's extra important to be sun-safe during pregnancy, and wear a sunscreen with both high factor (SPF50) UVB protection and UVA protection. Skin experet Dr Sam Bunting recommends a mineral version, explaining: "I like sunscreens which utilise physical blocker zinc oxide in treating melasma, so UV is deflected away from the skin like a mirror." Try the Ultra Violette Lean Screen Mineral Mattifying Fragrance-free Skinscreen SPF50, a 100 per cent mineral filter that doesn't leave an oily film or chalky finish.
"Serums and creams containing vitamin C will reduce pigmentation and brighten the complexion," says Dr Phillips. "Azelaic acid and niacinamide will also block melanin production, and can improve the appearance of melasma during pregnancy."
Beauty Pie Happy Face Cream
This skin-clearing gel-cream contains 10% azelaic acid and niacinamide.
Dr Sam's Flawless Brightly Serum
This brightening serums contains azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C and bakuchiol.
Studies also show that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can be beneficial in treating hyperpigmentation, and they are generally considered safe to use in pregnancy – depending on your skin's sensitivity levels (always patch test on a small area of skin before use). Try a weekly exfoliation with a product like the Hydropeptide Pre-Treatment Toner which contains lactic acid, a gentle but effective AHA.
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The problem: Hormonal acne
With racing hormones, an increase in oil secretion, and anxiety added into the mix, many women experience breakouts during pregnancy, especially around the chin, jawline and cheeks.
The products to use: While you definitely want to stay away from traditional acne remedies containing retinol during pregnancy, there are other active ingredients you can use. "When managing acne during pregnancy, cleansers and serums containing less than 2% salicylic acid can be used to unblock the pores, improve texture and treat whiteheads and blackheads," confirms Dr Phillips. "Niacinamide and azelaic acid have anti-inflammatory properties and can help to address pimples and nodules."
The problem: Sensitivity and dry skin conditions
Hormonal changes in pregnancy can also increase any skin sensitivities and you might not only find yourself more sensitive to the sun, but certain products that you previously loved. Thomas concurs: "One of the thing I note from my expectant clients is that their skin is more reactive even to things it would normally easily tolerate."
London facialist and author of beauty bible Love Your Skin, Abigail James, says "it's thought that this is our body's way of protecting itself and the foetus from infection and disease". As with acne, above, skin conditions like eczema and rosacea may also worsen.
The products to use: Firstly, make sure your cleanser is gentle and irritant-free (Dr Sam's Flawless Cleanser is ideal), and in general, avoid all products containing fragrance which can trigger inflammation, and opt for a broad spectrum mineral SPF.
"Dry skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis can be managed using moisturisers formulated with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and urea, and emollients such as ceramides and shea butter, to repair and replenish the skin barrier," says Dr Phillips. Try the CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion which contains ceramides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion
CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion
"Steroid creams and ointments can be safely used under the supervision of a dermatologist or GP to treat flare-ups."
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The problem: Rosacea or increased redness
When pregnant, the volume of blood can almost double in your body, which can often mean that the 'healthy glow' tips over into redness. Claire Barret, skincare expert at mother and baby range Bloom and Blossom says that "this really affects the tiny blood vessels in the face, so many women will experience hot flushes and increased redness in their skin". The heat plus heightened sensitivity can also exasperate rosacea if you're already a sufferer.
The products to use: To manage hot flushes, arm yourself with a refreshing, fragrance-free face mist that will hydrate the skin while cooling redness. Many sensitive skincare brands have anti-redness skincare ranges, such as Bioderma, Ren, Dr.Jart+ and Clinique, which will help regulate redness. "For rosacea, I would recommend gentle skincare," confirms Dr Phillips. "Niacinamide can reduce redness, pimples and will also improve the skin barrier, while azelaic acid can also be used to treat redness and blemishes."
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Skincare ingredients to avoid
There are various ingredients – both natural and synthetic – that are advised against in pregnancy:
-Retinol. Some studies have linked products containing retinol to birth and child defects and therefore they are best avoided in pregnancy and during breastfeeding. James says another reason to avoid retinol-based products is because as they speed up cell turnover, they "also make the skin much more prone to sun damage and developing pigmentation".
-Phthalates/formaldehyde/toluene. Look out for these chemicals in perfume and nail polishes. While currently inconclusive, "research is being carried out to assess a possible link with birth defects," James says. Look to nail polish brands such as Nailberry which are formulated to be "12 chemical free".
-Ammonia. Found in some hair dyes, James says that "it has carcinogenic properties, so steer clear". Your colourist will be able to advise you on ammonia-free options and whether it's safe to colour your hair once you've passed the first trimester of pregnancy.
-Dihydroxyacetone via spray tans. This is the non-toxic active ingredient in self-tanning products which doesn't travel beyond the outer layer of the skin and therefore isn't absorbed into the body, so you don't have to avoid it completely. However, the effects of inhalation are not known, so you may want to avoid spray tanning whilst pregnant.
-Certain essential oils. "There are several essential oils that should be used with caution during pregnancy," advises Dr Meder. "The agents they contain have small molecular weight and high volatility, so they may affect the body as a whole. Many essential oils increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV, which isn’t great considering the risk of pigmentation is higher during pregnancy." James lists basil, rosemary, juniper berry, jasmine, cypress and chamomile blue as essential oils to avoid given their potential to over-stimulate and encourage menstruation. Dr Meder adds that, "camphor, peppermint extract, and mint oil are also not recommended during pregnancy, especially for those late in pregnancy or those with an increased risk of miscarriage."
Facial treatments and procedures in pregnancy
As you might imagine, cosmetic 'tweakments' are advised against when you're expecting, or trying to conceive. In our guide to cosmetic procedures in pregnancy, aesthetic physician Dr. Ravi Jain of the Riverbanks Wellness Clinic explains that "there is no clinical evidence suggesting that injecting neurotoxins like Botox is unsafe in pregnancy or while breastfeeding, but it is sensible practice not to inject a toxin in pregnant women just in case something happens to the baby". The same goes for dermal fillers; "there is always a risk with any medical intervention," he adds. And even non-injectable treatments such as deep peels and deep microneedling can also pose a risk.
"We can safely do gentle microneedling," says Dr Zoya Awan, the medical director of Secret Aesthetics found within Harvey Nichols, Birmingham, "but I wouldn’t do this treatment if the patient has certain pregnancy-related medical conditions – so essentially it’s very much on a case-by-case basis that I decide if I will offer microneedling or not and how deep or intense I will go with the treatment".
While most facial laser treatments are also advised against, Thomas – an aesthetic laser expert – says Byonik, a pulse-triggered laser treatment, is safe and very beneficial. "It is pain-free, has no down-time and is safe during pregnancy and while breastfeeding," she confirms. "It maximises the skin’s regenerative capacity and slows down the cellular ageing process whilst reducing inflammation associated with acne, rosacea and sensitivity. Inflammation is also very closely tied to melasma so it can help to mange pigmentation as well."
There are myriad facials suitable for pregnancy, too. Dr Sindhu Siddiqi of London's No Filter Clinic says their "Fire and Ice Facial is pregnancy safe and brilliant for tackling pigmentation, dull skin, acne, acne scars and fine lines." Meanwhile, at Secret Aesthetics in Birmingham "we can create bespoke facials targeted towards problematic skin often incorporating a Hydrafacial with pregnancy-safe ingredients tailored around someone's baseline skin concerns and goals," says Dr Awan. "But I always emphasise that these work synergistically with other skin habits. Generally speaking, no facial treatment is going to magically transform your skin. This comes from consistency and patience as part of a regime with the right at-home skincare, too."
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