Why 'notox' is taking over the healthy ageing space
When the cosmetic-loving Kardashians dubbed the Morpheus8 microneedling and radiofrequency treatment a "game-changer", we knew there was a sizeable shift pending in the beauty stratosphere. Not only did Kim also admit to trying "every laser going" in the quest for a youthful visage, she also suggested she was joining the likes of Jennifer Aniston, Drew Barrymore and Gwyneth Paltrow in opting for facial alternatives to wrinkle-relaxing injections like Botox for a youthful complexion.
Although an estimated 900,000 botulinum toxin injections are carried out in the UK each year, skin boosting treatments that treat as they transform are gaining traction with those looking for anti-ageing as longevity. One expert that's noticed a change in the air is aesthetic specialist Dr Joney De Souza. “Botox is still one of our most sought after treatments in our clinic,” he begins. “However the past couple of years has shown a marked increase in the number of people seeking alternatives.” While there's no denying the impressive effects wrinkle-relaxers can have (if administered correctly), their results are temporary – lasting anywhere between three-to-six months. “More and more people are asking how they can invest in a long-term treatment plan over a last-minute remedy,” says clinical lead of Hair & Skin Dr Rita Bonanno. “They want the effects to ensure harmonious, gradual and healthy ageing.”
Celebrity endorsements aside, why the sudden 360? It could be the rise in botched injectables – UCL researchers have found that 68 per cent of cosmetic practitioners who are administering injections such as wrinkle relaxers and dermal fillers are not medical doctors, but–in De Souza's opinion–it's the wider variety of alternatives available. “Botox used to be the only option to eradicate fine lines but there are so many more options now and people are more educated about what's available,” he says. “Those who seek alternatives do so because they prefer a more natural way of reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving their skin tone and texture.” With popular trends such as the 'clean girl' beauty look, 'glass skin', 'quiet luxury' and 'no make-up make-up', the focus on flawless skin and a snatched bone structure has created a desire to seek treatments that deliver real results.
As the non-surgical skin tightening market size is estimated to increase by over $500 million between 2023 to 2027 due to an increasing older population, the demand has bred a plethora of science-backed treatments focussed on longevity. Although De Souza admits that wrinkle relaxing injections are unrivalled in their ability to correct lines, focusing on collagen stimulation is key for prevention. “Ultrasound, radiofrequency, CO2 and Erbium Yag lasers are just some of the treatments available that can boost collagen production for a more youthful visage,” he says. “A great treatment combo is medical microneedling combined with platelet rich plasma (PRP). In combination with a good cosmeceutical skincare routine containing active ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, peptides and hyaluronic acid, it is possible to really reverse the signs of ageing caused by the greatest factor of all – UV exposure.”
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Appearing healthy and just really good (whatever age you may be) is now the end goal over simply looking 'young'– which can read as unnatural if you're not, according to Dr Rita. “The ageing process is inevitable and people not only want to be good-looking and at peace with themselves, but to be healthy and feel good as well. This can be achieved by treatments that work in depth, at a cellular level,” she explains. And it's true what they say – good things happen to those who wait.
'Notox' treatments to try
PRP
Plasma application is a cutting-edge procedure that makes use of the healing power of platelets and blood growth factors to stimulate the response of stem cells. “Platelet rich plasma (PRP) and platelet rich fibrin (PRF) utilise the bodies own growth factors by harnessing the power of plasma within the blood,” De Souza explains. “The plasma is separated in a centrifuge and then injected back into the treated areas to stimulate collagen and elastin production which thickens and tightens thinning, ageing skin and is a great treatment for improving the overall quality of the skin, it’s tone and texture.”
Treatments required: 3 sessions
Price per session: £200-£450
Results last: 1-2 years
Injectable skin boosters
From vitamin mesotherapy to Profhilo – skin boosters are a cocktail of hyaluronic acid, vitamins, minerals and amino-acids injected into the skin to improve tone, texture and plump out fine lines. By stimulating collagen and elastin, the skin appears firmer, lifted and more radiant.
Treatments required: 2 sessions
Price per session: From £250
Results last: Up to 6 months
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Lasers
Picosure (for age spots and acne scars), Erbium YAG (which removes the outer layers of skin, revealing new, refreshed skin cells below), LASEMD (which stimulates collagen and elastin production, improving skin texture and firmness) and CO2 (which breaks down scar tissue and promotes collagen production) are just some of the lasers available for firmer, healthy skin.
Treatments required: 3-5 sessions
Price per session: From £400
Results last: 3-5 years
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Microneedling
Using a handheld device or 'pen', a practitioner creates hundreds of microscopic needle impressions in the skin. By creating the micro-injuries it prompts the deeper layers of skin to mount a healing response, delivering a natural collagen boost. This also allows for deeper absorption of topical treatments after the treatment.
Treatments required: 3-6 sessions
Price per session: From £200
Results last: from a few weeks to several months depending on the depth of the needling
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Ultrasound
During an ultrasonic facial, high level sound wave technology is used to penetrate deep below the surface of the skin. The benefits include increased blood circulation, tone facial muscles, reduced puffiness and promotes cellular renewal. Look out for treatments such as Ultherapy and Sofwave.
Treatments required: 1-2 sessions
Price per session: From £1,400
Results last: 1-2 years
Radiofrequency
Using energy waves to heat the deeper layers of the skin to between 122 and 167°F, radiofrequency stimulates the production of collagen. The renowned Morpheus8 treatment boasts the added bonus of microneedling to enhance the skin tightening effects.
Treatments required: 2-6 sessions
Price per session: From £300
Results last: 1-3 years
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