Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal

Image courtesy of YSL

“Fashion fades, style is eternal” Yves Saint Laurent once said. Now, for the first time in the UK, we can see how the French designer proved himself right. Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal is the first exhibition in the UK to present a comprehensive display of his work and life. Here we interview the curator Joanna Hashagen, keeper of fashion & textiles at the Bowes Museum where it is held, to find out what to expect. 
 
Talk me through the process of curating an exhibition like this. How did it all come about? How long has it taken to put together?
The idea came about when the Bowes Museum lent one of its Canaletto’s to an exhibition in Paris, and since then it has taken two years of discussions with the Fondation Pierre Bergé –Yves Saint Laurent. Once the Fondation team visited the Bowes Museum and saw the galleries and space available, they were confident that we could successfully host such a prestigious exhibition. They saw that the new Fashion and Textile Gallery was a fitting setting.

Evening gown worn by Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain

This is the first exhibition in the UK to present a truly comprehensive display of Saint Laurent’s life and work. How much of a challenge has it been to create something spectacular?
The Paris designer, Nathalie Crinière, has created a spectacular design for the Bowes Museum and we have had an excellent team to build it – North Exhibition Services Ltd. It covers three galleries and spans the whole of his 41-year career.
 
You have collaborated with Pierre Bergé, co-founder of the couture house and life partner of the designer, on the project. How involved was he in the process?
Monsieur Bergé was involved at every stage. Everything was shown to him for his approval and we are very grateful to him for his support. From the outset Monsieur Bergé had said that the exhibition must link with our own collections. Once it was confirmed that I would curate it, the head of collections from the Fondation spent two days here helping me select the exhibits. We both saw connections with our historic dress and textile displays, and these links formed the themes for the show.
 
Bergé described the Bowes Museum as the “natural destination” for the UK exhibition. Explain what it is that makes the Bowes Museum so perfect for the display.
He thought we were the perfect place. A fabulous chåteau filled with beautiful galleries of French art in Second Empire taste; and designed by a French architect, Jules Pellechet; and built for John Bowes and his French wife, Joséphine: it was a natural home for YSL.

The Bowes Museum

What can we expect from the display?
There will be music, many film clips, 55 full outfits and 100-plus accessories – hats, shoes, jewellery – sketches, toiles, embroideries, buttons, hat blocks, patterns and clients’ mannequins. The installation is full of surprises – like some of Yves Saint Laurent’s original paper dolls from the early 1950s, for which he designed whole wardrobes in paper.
 
The exhibition features outfits that have never been shown outside France before. How do you think a British audience will receive the exhibit? How do you think the ensembles on display speak to a British audience?
The British have been aware of Yves Saint Laurent’s creative talent ever since he started, and he has continued to remain the foundation for many UK fashion trends. Saint Laurent's influence can still be seen on any high street: he has endured as one of the best-known and most influential couturiers. That is why we are giving the exhibition the title ‘Style is Eternal’. A striking pink dress (below), designed by Saint Laurent when he was 22 and head of Dior, was shown in the UK in 1958 in a charity fashion show staged at Blenheim Palace in front of Princess Margaret. It was recently rediscovered at the Palais Galliera museum in Paris and will be shown again in this exhibition.

YSL Zepherine Dress, Andy-Barnham

For you, what are the highlights of the exhibition?
There are far too many. The pink Dior dress is wonderful. But to be able to display his original sketches and the collection boards is truly amazing. They give a sense of his creative genius. He was one of the last great couturiers in the tradition of Chanel and Dior. We explore his working process in the Alchemy of Style section.
 
Name the three key YSL pieces to look out for on display when visiting the exhibition.
The Mondrian dress, 1965, the slinky tuxedo for evening, 1966, and the first trouser suit, 1967. We are very honoured to have had such a superb choice of such iconic and legendary items.

How do you think Yves Saint Laurent influenced fashion? What would you say is his legacy in the industry today? 
The most famous part of his legacy are the trouser suits, jumpsuits and safari jackets which still look perfectly modern today despite being created in the 1960s. Saint Laurent designed these practical styles for women, but also created beautiful romantic dresses in the most luxurious fabrics. He empowered women, yet with a style that always retained their beauty and femininity. It is widely acknowledged that the contribution of Yves Saint Laurent will continue to impact and influence the world of fashion. On Yves Saint Laurent’s death in 2008, Jean-Paul Gaultier said: “Though he has left us, his works will stay part of our lives."

Yves Saint Laurent: Style Is Eternal opens on 11 July – 25 October at the Bowes Museum. For more information visit the Bowes Museum website here.

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